Maybe the television show “Cheers” was so popular, for so long, because folks like you and me just feel better, happier, safe…even, when there is a place to go where someone actually knows who you are. And seems to care a little bit. And you care about them.
Where someone remembers how you take your coffee in the morning. What’s happening with your kid. Your new job. What the doctor said? That you like chicken soup with rice. Hold the noodles.
The connections may not run deep. They are ensconced within “this place.” But once in a blue moon, these connections run long. Very long. We are living out that “Cheers” story right now in Culver City. And the last show is this Sunday at 4:00 P.M. The Roll ‘n Rye Delicatessen has been a bagel-lovers fixture on Jefferson Boulevard for what feels like a slice of forever. The businesses around it have come and gone, but this stalwart haven hung in and hung on. It was easy to think it would never end.
But everything ends.
The owner grew up in the deli world and has worked tirelessly her whole life to run a successful business that also morphed into a social hub for the community. In this land of corporate mergers and chain restaurants that all look and feel and smell alike, what a rare gem to find a place like this. A place where three generations of families have woven Roll ‘n Rye stories into their lives.
I remember the golden days of this deli. We’d have to wait an hour in the crowded holding area to be seated, staring down the deli case. Not a vegetarian’s delight, shall we say. The lucky ones got to wait on the long bench under the iconic black and white picture of the old-timey MGM stars. From my perch I’d watch the cooks move like dancers in a he-man ballet, gliding from the hot grill to the meat slicer. The waitresses were a blur of movement and intention.
My husband, mother and I went to the Roll ‘n Rye the day after my father passed away. Of course they knew my daddy at this place and Rita, the owner, gave me a big hug. Over the years, she’s watched the same scenario unfold over and over again–these passages, big and small, that we experience in our lives. She helped create a space where we could bring them into the light of day. And be comforted by a community of people who know this feeling too.
But our eating habits have changed. The recession didn’t help either. There are fewer and fewer delicatessens left in Los Angeles. After 51 years, it was time for Rita, the owner, to retire. The Roll ‘n Rye will be replaced by one of those cookie-cutter chain restaurants that thrive on getting customers in and out quickly. Building a sense of community, of connection, is not on their menu.
But what about us? We are a Diaspora now, scattering here and there. Looking for a new place to lay down roots. What we had at the Roll ‘n Rye will never happen again. It’s impossible. Just as this moment will never happen again. But anyone who has had a place to go that feels like home, even for a little while, is very lucky indeed. Perhaps we can take that feeling with us and go build something new.
PROGRAM NOTE FOR MY SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA FRIENDS:
Craig and I are leading a fun-filled and music-full ukulele jam session Friday, September 19 at Dave’s Island Instruments in Lakewood, from 6:30 to 8:00 P.M. We’ll be strumming and finger-picking a whole array of songs that beginner and intermediate players will love. All this joy for only $5. Please join us, players, singers and music lovers. No reservations are necessary. Just show up. (Chicken soup is optional…)
Dave’s Island Instruments
4115 Los Coyotes Diagonal, Lakewood, CA 90713
562-706-1719
Cali
Beautifully written. You are a wonderful story teller. I don’t know if I should be happy or sad for Rita, but I do know I would have like to have been a friend/customer. I, too will miss the “Roll’n Rye.” You and Craig will have to hold on to your good memories ( which we all have to do more of these days) of Rita and her place Be well. “K.D.”
Cali
Interesting concept. Exactly how my crowd felt about the Wild Goose, a topless bar, now across the street from the bus terminal at Aviation and 114th and recently razed after being vacant for 3 years. Previously across the street from a hotel/ country western bar/ and coffee shop. We would all show up at about 11:15, before the drink prices went up at 11:30, order 2 drinks and have lunch at the bar. Knew each other, the owners, their kids, the waitresses, the bar tenders, and most of the entertainers. A few or them decided this was not their crowd, their income level, their style of job, or whatever. We used to have a slogan that said, don’t bother to learn their name until they last 6 weeks Also, that they had cheap food, cheap drinks, and cheap customers.
“Mr. Anonymous”
Cali
Your piece on the passing of the famous Roll ‘N Rye Deli filled us with memories, too. Our favorite was a sardine sandwich on Rye, with heaps of raw onions–in fact we had our last (!) one on Friday. It is/was the only place in town for this sandwich and aside from the friendly service, we’ll never taste its like again. They recommended Lenny’s on Pico and Westwood–It used to be Junior’s. But I can’t imagine anyone else making our favorite in the same way! How things do change…..
“L.I.”
Donna
Sorry about your deli, but thank God, there is one GREAT DELI left!
It is LABEL’S TABLE! Label’s has been around for generations. Not only is the food fantastic, but they have the lowest prices in town!
You will be able to continue enjoying the big, thick, juicy sandwiches you love : CORNED BEEF, PASTRAMI, ROAST BEEF, CHOPPED LIVER, BAGLES LOX AND CREAM CHEESE, BRISKET, ETC.
Plus… KNISHES, BLINTZES AND MORE!
Not only will everyone know your name, but the owner, Bruce, will kibbutz with you , and care about what’s going on in your life.
LABEL’S is on Pico near Beverly Dr. and Robertson.
Call: (310) 276-0388
Cali
Thank you Donna. We’ll check it out. Folks are coming up with cool ideas for new deli hangouts. I think the thing that is tugging at hearts though is not so much the food, but the sense of “family” that grew and unfolded in that place. That’s a pretty precious thing these days.