It’s Shark Week on the Discovery Channel, but these days it feels like every week is a sort of “shark week” somewhere, somehow.
Usually this stuff goes through one ear and out the other in our house. Usually. But last month my husband Craig and I actually did “swim with sharks” and not exactly on purpose.
Here we are in beautiful Hanalei on the north shore of Kaua’i enjoying a real tropical vacation. I don’t realize how exhausted I am until we settle into our little studio bungalow a few steps from one of the most beautiful beaches in the world: Hanalei Bay. For the first couple of days all I can bring myself to do is eat, sleep, go to the bathroom, look out the window and go back to sleep.
But soon enough I return to life and it’s time to take a dip in the beautiful turquoise bay. First we baste each other with industrial-strength sun block, fortified with zinc AND titanium. I’m looking like a greased albino mammal trundling down Pilokoa Street, leaving little doubt that this specimen is “a tourist.”
Craig and I lay our towels on the sand and head to the water. This time of year the bay looks like a great big blue bathtub with waves that are rubber ducky size. The water is on the cool side, well cool for me, and being a temperature-wimp, it will take ten minutes or so to completely submerge myself in the water. One body part, one joint at a time. On the other hand, Craig dives right in and swims “that-a-way” just as the salty stuff is lapping at my calves. You get the picture.
Except…
Just as we are dipping our toes into the ocean a man yells “SHARK!.” He’s standing close enough for me to guess his age… Fear smears across my husband’s face. Craig is channeling the movie “Jaws.” I just know it. As he makes a pitch-perfect U-Turn back to the sand.
I, on the other hand, just stand there, in mainlander shock. Or idiocy. (Craig reminds me that when we have an earthquake in Los Angeles, I run to the window “to watch” instead of ducking under a table.) Instinctively I turn to the lifeguard station, which is well within eyeshot, and there is Mr. Tan & Gorgeous, lounging nonchalantly on the ledge of his tower. Mmmmm.
By now the “Shark Town Crier” is pointing at shadows moving underwater about a foot from my foot. I count them. Three. Three little sharks. Maybe eighteen inches long and one of them gets so close to the sand that it grounds itself, flipping and flopping as curious tourists gather around and gasp. Until the next wave takes him back to his watery home.
The man announces to the small phalanx of folks “they are Hammerheads. Just babies. It’s okay. They won’t hurt you.”
“Re-e-e-e-ally?” I say, not entirely believing him as I glance back at the lifeguard who is now chatting with some girls. But there is no panic in the air. Or water. Retiree types, little kids, young couples, midlings, are bobbing up and down in the gentle waves. So what the hell? I begin my ritual of dipping ever so slowly into the wet. Craig finally relents and dives in. When he comes up for air I notice he’s casually looking over his right shoulder and then his left and then his right…
Long story short, we swim with sharks. Sort of. But I still have questions so I corral the lifeguard whose world-weary demeanor makes me think he gets “shark” questions all the time.
“They are juveniles. They won’t bother you if you don’t bother them.” At this point I’m wondering what that would look like–bothering a shark? And why would anyone want to BOTHER a shark.
“But you know,” I continue, “I’m thinking that maybe since these are, like, shark children, maybe MOM and DAD are somewhere close by, like, hovering…you know…”
“Probably not,” he tells me matter-of-factly. Once sharks are born (or hatched or whatever), they are on their own, he reports. Mom and dad’s job is done. This news is shocking to me considering it takes, what, thirty, forty years to raise an adult human. So the baby sharks have to figure things out for themselves, just like that. (This brings up all kinds of abandonment issues for me…but never mind.)
Don’t sharks have a “reputation” for being predators and biters and mean fish? Mean mean fish? I’m sure that’s not the whole story, but nevertheless, popping into the world just as mom and dad are swimming away would not put me in a good mood.
I’m just saying…
Marilyn Carter
Hi Cali,
My husband and I were in Kauai the first two weeks of July. We have a condo in Princeville and visit the island about every two years. Hanalei Bay is one of our favorite places in the whole world, and this year it was especially beautiful. Did you see Puff the Magic Dragon surrounding the bay? Most people don’t know that Peter, Paul and Mary wrote the song when they were up in a helicopter looking at the coastline around Hanalei Bay. Rumor has it that they were smoking pot at the time, but I choose to think that they were not.
So glad that the sharks didn’t eat you! Marilyn
Cali
And we were in Kaua’i the fourth week of July and just missed you. Yes what a magic land it is on the North Shore and how lovely you can visit regularly. Foodland Grocery Store in Princeville is our primary dinner location–a sandwich for Craig and ahi poke for me. I have heard several iterations of the Peter, Paul and Mary story. The helicopter ride is a new twist for me. But beautiful as ever, even with the extra hundreds of tourists streaming about like ants.
Pam Trump
You have such a way with words. I feel like I’m right with you heading into the ocean one toe at a time. I also am a warm water fan so I rarely think the water is “warm enough”. I laugh when friends say the water is too warm so they are turning off their solar. Sounds perfect to me! Did you take the photos? They are gorgeous. I was in Hanalei in February and can’t wait to go back.
Cali
Thank you Pam! A fellow warm-water lover. Yay! I took the window picture, Hanalei Bay-long view and Craig took the beach and boats picture. The baby hammerhead was snagged off the internet.
Hanalei Bay must be gorgeous in February with the big waves. We went in July and I’ve never seen so many tourists. The movie, The Descendants, with George Clooney, was a game-changer for the area. Tahiti Nui is the “in-spot” these days.
Thank you for your feedback. Happy strumming. Absolutely.